I was recently on holiday in the Canary Islands, looking like Monica from Friends when she’s in Barbados. You know, the episode when her hair is insanely frizzy and looking a hot, humid mess? Well, that was me! So I figured I’d write a post on Glycerin 101 for Curly Hair. Why it’s such a tricky ingredient that many curlies have a love/hate relationship with, and when to use it in your curly girl products throughout the year, and different weather and climate conditions.
What is glycerin?
Glycerin is a water-soluble, moisturising alcohol. Also known as glycerol or glycerine. It comes from synthetic or natural sources such as animal fats; vegetable and plant oils, like shea butter or coconut oil. It’s odorless, thick, clear, and generally regarded as non-toxic. Because it’s water-soluble, and such an effective moisturiser and humectant; many beauty manufacturers typically add glycerin to skin and hair care products because of it’s softening, conditioning and moisture-retaining properties.
Why the weather, climate, humidity and dew points are so important
Here’s why there’s a love/hate relationship with glycerin: humidity. Where you live, the climate and weather, humidity and dew points are key to figuring out if you should use or avoid glycerin in your curly hair products and routine. Why? Because glycerin is a humectant. Which means it will attract, absorb and retain moisture/water from the surrounding atmosphere. This will sound amazing if you have dry, dehydrated curls! But it can also work the other way. I now think humectants in your hair products are just as important (if not more so) at working out what products will and won’t work for you, as your hair’s porosity. If you’re not sure what hair porosity is, why it’s important or want to find out what hair porosity you have, read this post.
When to use products containing glycerin?
The best way I can explain it is this: if your hair is dryer than the atmosphere around it, using products containing glycerin will draw moisture from the air, to your hair. And keep it there! This is great if it’s moderately humid, but not too much. These are ideal conditions for using products containing glycerin. Which, in this type of climate, is great for defining curls, minimising frizz and smoothing fly away hair.
My favourite products containing glycerin
Firstly, check the order that ingredients are listed on the back of your products. The higher an ingredient is labelled on the list, the larger the quantity of that ingredient is in the product. So look for products where glycerin is high up on the list. Some of my favourite products for these kind of glycerin-friendly conditions are from MopTop, Bouclème,
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DevaCurl’s Original, Decadence and Delight products and most of their styling products – I use No Poo Original and One Condition Original. Flora & Curl Leave In Detangler. Trepadora cleanse and condition products contain glycerin but it’s much lower down the ingredients list. However, it’s much higher in their styling products. –. MopTop Curly Hair Custard and Bouclème Curl Defining Gel are my two favourite stlying products containing glycerin, either separately, or paired together.
Here’s my hair using all MopTop products, which contain glycerin.
Get 10% off MopTop here using code CURLMAVEN.
When to avoid using products containing glycerin?
If the atmosphere is drier than your hair, the air will draw moisture from your hair, to help balance the moisture in the atmosphere. This is usually in dry climates with low humidity and dew points, and you should avoid using products that contain glycerin. To check dew points and humidity, I use this free android app.
Then there’s the extreme, high humidity and dew points which create big, frizzy hair. This is because the glycerin will continue to draw, and retain, moisture from the air, into your hair. This expands, swells and raises the hair cuticle so much, it loses definition and creates big, voluminous hair. Often soft and fluffy, and frizz, lots of frizz!
My favourite glycerin-free products
Almost all of my favourite styling products are glycerin-free, and that’s probably because I live in Ireland where there are extremes of humidity and dew points, rather than the glycerin-friendly, happy-medium. I think that’s why I love Jessicurl products so much. I always get such amazing, consistent results when I use their products, because they’re glycerin-free. If you’re in Europe, you can get them from Naturalistic Products. Some of my favourite brands that have glycerin-free products are As I Am, Kinky Curly (available from Naturalistic Products in the UK/EU) and Giovanni. Also Matrix Biolage Hydrasource Conditioner aka GVP Conditioning Balm for a great dupe in the U.S. There’s currently 33% OFF this product on HQ Hair and Look Fantastic. My favourite budget-friendly gel, Aussie Instant Freeze is also glycerin-free. UK & Irish curlies, click this link to get this holy grail gel on Amazon. American curlies, you can also get it from Walgreens or Target, and it’s often on sale or 3 for 2. Blueberry Bliss Reparative Leave In Conditioner and Curl Control Jelly are also glycerin-free, and also available from Naturalistic Products. I use the glycerin-free version of KY Jelly too, yes lube! Which is great at taming fly away frizz and creating a cast.
Here’s my hair using all Jessicurl products, which are glycerin-free.
Goldilocks & Glycerin
So basically you need the humidity and dew points to be “just right” in order to get a good hair day when it comes to using products containing glycerin and other humectants. When the air isn’t too dry that it will literally suck the moisture out of your hair! Nor when the air has too much moisture that your hair will continue to soak up that moisture, losing all definition. You need a healthy balance where your hair is slightly dryer than the air around it. The higher the humidity, the bigger the volume! – if you use products containing glycerin. Some people love the extra volume they get, it’s just personal preference.
Does that make sense? Please say yes, because I got myself in a right tizzy the other day trying to explain it on my Instagram stories. By the way, if you haven’t followed me on Instagram already, please do, click the coloured text/links or you can find me @curlycailin.ie. For my first ever live, I decided to do a DIY cut – madness! Read all about it here. I had a glass of Malibu & Coke in hand, and had the chats and the LOL’s! If you were there for that, you’re an OG follower! – thank you!
Same Products, Different Results?
If you’ve wondered why you can use the same products as someone else, yet get drastically different results. Despite having the same curl pattern and porosity type. It’s usually down to the climate, weather, humidity, dew points and humectants, such as glycerin. Or, if you’ve perfected your product and styling routine with consistent results every time. Then go on vacation, or the seasons change, and you get completely different results. Again, using products with or without glycerin is usually why. That’s also why it can be important to change up your products throughout the year.
If you’re still struggling with halo frizz, despite following all these tips, check out this post – as it’s not always products that cause the problem.
Or you might like this post on how I get root volume – without using a pick or hair spray.
Feeling overwhelmed?
If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all the tips, advice and product recommendations. Click here for more information on my Curl Clinics™. A completely bespoke curl consultation service tailored to suit you and your hair. Designed to help get your waves and curls back and achieve your healthy hair goals. Or book in here!
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Gratitude & Support
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I’ve been looking everywhere for somewhere to buy the US brands that doesn’t cost a fortune! Thank you for the link to Naturalistics!
You’re welcome!! Enjoy, and please spend responsibly! Iknow how easy it is to get carried away just because all these brands are now within your grasp! ha ha! Gabriella xoxo
Hi! If the glycerin is in the the deep conditioner I use the results would be the same? I live in a very humid environment and none of my styling products have glycerin, but my deep conditioners do….
So my frizz is because of that isn’t it?
Are you completely rinsing out your deep conditioners Ruby? Frizz can be caused by lots of things. Product build up, for example – when was the last time you clarified? Different application techniques when applying your styling products can also minimise frizz. For example, raking, using a Denman brush etc.
Hi!! Thank you for answering 🙂
Maybe I’m doing more than one thing wrong…
I’m just learning about clarifying so I think it could be build up.
I changed almost every product I have for none glycerin ones and it’s worked pretty well so far. But I’m also looking for techniques to clarify with what I can find where I live… Here in my country it’s a little hard to find good CGM products…
If you look at the “Where I Shop” section on my site (in the side bar or top left hand menu on desktop or keep scrolling to the end on mobile) you’ll see where I buy all my stuff. I have to buy almost everything online, but those sites ship worldwide so it’s definitely worth checking them out.
I’m confused. Lol! When should I use products with glycerin to help reduce frizz?
When the dew points are not too low, and not too high. Otherwise the glycerin will cause MORE frizz. Hope that helps.
I live in a very high humidity environment and I have really been struggling to find products that are not only glycerin free but free of other humectants as well. Can you please recommend products that have no humectants? I have 2 a/b wavy hair that is fine, high porosity, low density. I struggle with frizz and lack of clumped defined waves. Thank you!
Hiya, I don’t do ingredient checking, as you can do that yourself with a quick Google, reading the ingredients labels in store, online or at home. There are two specific curly girl friendly ingredient checking websites too.
This is so helpful, thank you!
This is really useful thank you Gabriella! I’ve been following the CG method for quite sometime now and although I have seen definite improvements I still don’t think I’ve “nailed it”! I have low porosity 2b and 2c curls – frizz is still an issue especially on day 2/3 hair and so far a solution has eluded me. Reading your article about glycerin led me to check my hair products and 90% of them have it listed in the first few ingredients. I live in the UK and the weather seems to fluctuate daily, it’s made me seriously consider whether glycerin is doing me any favours… In your opinion would it better to switch my shampoo and conditioner or styling products to glycerin free versions? I was leaning more towards the styling products (mainly because Christmas is right on the door step and I need to save my pennies for that! )
Very well written article. Will keep these in mind. Thank you very much..
I’m grateful you wrote this post! And though it is probably clear for most I sometimes have a hard time tracking on things like this; thus, I just want to make sure I understand!
Hair drier, draw moisture FROM air TO hair = use glycerin (typically moderate humidity)
Hair more moist, draw moisture TO air FROM hair (dry climate, low humidity/dew pt AND in high humid/dew pt climates) = do not use glycerin
Do I have this backwards? Is this too basic of an understanding if I do understand?
Thank you!
Yes, it’s a bit of a confusing way to think of it, but if that’s how it makes sense to you and it works then go for it. But you’ve got it right yes.
I have been looking everywhere for Humectant free products because I think it has been the cause of my serious frizz the minute i step outdoors.
I have read hundreds of articles and find your site really useful but everything I read is all very conflicting. For example you have said that you love Jessicurl but Glycerine is the second ingredient in Rockin’ Ringlets. Most of the As I am styling products also contain Glycerine or another humectants.
Then there is Kinky Curls which doesn’t seem to contain Glycerine but their ingredient list doesn’t contain water, which make me think it isn’t a complete list or in order of volume.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Hi Erika, thank you, and sorry if you found the post confusing. Not all Jessicurl products are glycerin free, my apologies. However, some of them are. And Aussie Instant Freeze Gel for example. It’s a case of having to look through the ingredients in each of your products, this post is to help you understand glycerin, humectants and the environment.
What percentage should I be looking for to know when not to use glycerin products!?
Goodness, ain’t no one got time to be determining percentages of glycerin in products. The higher up in the ingredients list, the more of that ingredient there is. In general, once it’s not in the top 5 ingredients, you could be okay to use it in environments that aren’t great for using glycerin products. But my advice would be to go completely glycerin-free if you can, and that’s an issue for you. Hope that helps!
I was thinking this question was referring to the percentage of humidity in the air maybe? At what percentage humidity should we use or not use glycerin? I live in Ohio so the humidity is always different depending on the day/season.
OMG. Thank you, a million times thank you. I read this post a few weeks ago, when my hair was doing all the things I wanted it to do. I was using protien rich products, which have been amazing for my hair. But then somewhere at the end of April the mid-Atlantic spring/summer/winter2/summer kicked in and my hair was awful. I dealt with it for a week until it suddenly dawned on me: Glycerin! So I checked all the ingredients, and all but 1 had glycerin as its second or third ingredient. Made the change to glycerin-free and bam my curls came back in a few days/washes!
tl;dr thank you for this post, it helped me realize why my curls were failing with the weather change!
Oh my goodness, yes that’s a lot of Glycerin! Which I’m guessing was leading to lots of big, poofy, frizzy hair too! I’m so glad you found the post helpful and it helped you figure out what was going on so you could make the necessary adjustments and live your best curly life again. xoxo
Many of the products listed here actually do have glycerin. I think formulas change often in the US. So frustrating! The As I am and Jessicurl (most) have added it now.
Hmm….only 2 of the Jessicurl styling products have glycerin, the formula is the same in the UK as they are in the US. I listed both glycerin and glycerin-free products in this post. But you can check the ingredients lists of the products you have, because glycerin is very clearly listed, as just “glycerin”. Hope that helps xoxo
Thank you so much for explaining glycerin! You made it easy to understand. I have been examining ingredients on drugstore rinse-out conditioners for under $12 per 8oz – it seems all of them have glycerin! So I was wondering….do you think it is OK to use a rinse-out conditioner that has glycerin when the dew point is high, since it is rinsed out via the squish to condish method? Maybe I need to just make sure my styling products don’t have glycerin, since they stay in my hair? I really hope there are some products I can use to help my hair look better while staying in budget…
Yes, I think that’s okay. So long as your styling products don’t have glycerin in them, if that’s what you’re looking for. Aussie Instant Freeze Gel is a fantastic budget friendly glycerin free styling product!
I live in Minnesota, USA. Very humid summers but the temps in the winter are any where between 30 degrees above 0 and 50 BELOW zero. So what should I use. I was going to go with Jessicurl, maybe for summer months and then what after that.
Thanks much
I find Jessicurl is great for both summer and winter, as glycerin is just as tricky in the cold, as it is in the heat. All thanks to glycerin. You may find you need a more hydrating deep conditioner during the winter, depending on your hair, central heating, weather etc.
I am so grateful for this kind of information. I am new to this having been CG for a month. I am still trying to find products and balance for my very thin, fine 2C/3A hair. To make sure that I understand, I live in north Texas and for example, today our temperature is 100 degrees, our dew point is 67 and our humidity is 34. My short (chin length) hair has a looser curl than normal and is frizzy. Today was wash day and I used DevaCurl Delight, Olaplex 3 treatment, Moroccan Oil volume shampoo then a light leave in conditioner. I used DevaCurl B’Leave-in. I would love any suggestions or advice. Thanks!!
Hi Holly, I’m not sure why you’ve used two shampoo’s: Deva Curl Delight and Moroccan Oil Shampoo (which I’m not sure if that’s CG). Deva Curl B’Leave In isn’t a leave in conditioner, it’s actually a styling product and it’s got a LOT of glycerin in, which may be causing the frizz. It’s all about trial and error, experiementing and seeing what works and what doesn’t and taking it from there. Hope that helps x
Amazing post- thank you! Quick question about glycerin- my hair is prone to over-moisturizing and needing protein. How can glycerin impact this balance? I live in a more humid climate so I’m wondering if I should avoid glycerin as much as possible?
Yes you need to be careful with glycerin if your hair is prone to getting over moisturised, as it is a humectant and very moisturising. Again, it depends on what kind of climate/weather you live in. But I would suggest staying away from products that have high quantities of glycerin.
Can you give some examples or ranges of humidity or dew points where my hair would be drier than the air or when the air would be drier than my hair?
I’ve appreciate finding your blog and this post. Just starting the curly girl method and have had some stops and starts. My hair doesn’t seem to like glycerin at all, not matter what the weather. When I use products with glycerin, my hair VERY easily feels loaded up and covered with stuff. It seems a bit is ok when my hair is straight but not curly. My best hair day so far was with Herbal Essence Set Me Up gel; that I can use a ton of and my curls were clumped, soft/swing and just felt completely free of product. Love your thoughts and input.
Was looking into the Matrix conditioner and GVP balm and saw that both have glycerin on their ingredient lists. Have they changed their formulas or is the glycerin content low enough to not have much impact?
Thank you so much for posting this. I live in central Canada and it is so dry here in the winter and so humid in the summer. My curls have gone from 3b to 2b and I’ve been in despair about it for 4 yrs…I thought it was from having kids but I think it’s a combo of falling off my CGM and hormonal changes.
I definitely need 2 different methods for our climate here so again, thank you for making this easier to understand. I’ve been using glycerine products and my hair is a Mess no matter what I do.
Hi Gabriella, I am about 2 months into a curly girl journey and I have found your website so brilliant! I have learnt loads from it. I live in the UK and I’m struggling a bit with managing frizz in rainy weather. I realised I have been using products with glycerin in…but technically it shouldn’t matter as dew points are mid range. Would you recommend glycerin free for rainy weather in spite of the dew points?
Hi Susie, thanks so much for your kind words. It depends on the humidity. If its really rainy, I tend to avoid glycerin, or at least in my final styling product which is usually gel. Hope that helps x
It’s been peeing down with rain over the last few days here! Have purchased Aussie Instant Freeze Gel and Jessicurls (Confident Coils) on your recommendation and will be trying them this week. Fingers crossed!
Something that I notice is that aloe barbadensis and other humectants sometimes draw more moisture into my hair and the results are frizzier than glycerin.
Also, do you recommend a dupe for Moptop custard without glycerin? I get the best results with that product but can only use it when I am 100 percent sure it’s not going to rain or when I don’t have a big event coming up.
Hi Claudia, the only similar product to MopTop custard with no glycerin is Kinky Curly Curling Custard. Hope that helps x
I live in Ontario Canada. Which season would you suggest would be the best to use glycerin in my spray bottle along with a conditioner?
Thank you so much in advance!!
Check your humidity and dew points. Avoid glycerin when its very low or very high, if you don’t want big hair with lots of volume.
I have low porosity 2A/B/C hair and am currently dealing with bad moisture overload after using SheaMoaiture’s Low porosity shampoo all over my hair before conditioning. My hair is fragile, limp, sticky, stringy, tangly, frizzy, and takes a very long time to dry. I have read your protein moisture balance post and watched the video. I live in North Texas where it stays humid a lot of the time but especially in spring and summer. I have done two gelatin treatments this week using Marisa Curls recipe that I found on Swavy Curly Courtney’s youtube which calls for Shea Moisture’s Manuka Honey and Yogurt protein treatment, which I am now realizing has quite a bit of humectant. My hair is a bit better, but still has a long way to go and I believe it has too many humectants at this point (even worse for moisture overload). My normal wash routine includes AsIAm Olive Oil and Tea Tree shampoo for my dry scalp (root only), AsIAm Coconut CoWash, and Matrix Biolage Hydrasource Conditioner (not many humectants & normally beautiful hair but also no protein so not helpful for moisture overload). The shampoo I use when I need protein is DevaCurl Low-Poo Delight Weightless Waves Mild Lather Cleanser and I have also been using the ApHogee Intensive 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor (not the protein treatment) as my conditioner. My hair still needs some serious help. It seems that most protein treatments also heavier on humectants and I am lost on what to do at this point. Any recommendations would be appreciated!
Hi Jasmin, So I don’t recommend ANY Shea Moisture products, for all the reasons you’ve listed. It’s not good for your hair and will lead to damage. I recommend reading my Protein Moisture Balance post, with a corresponding YouTube video here: https://curlmaven.ie/protein-moisture-balance/ You are using too many moisturising products: As I Am Co Wash, Matrix Biolage Hydrasource Conditioenr etc. You’re also using the wrong Aphogee product, you need the Protein one, not the Keratin one. I also recommend my Modified Rice Water rinse here: https://curlmaven.ie/my-rice-water-rinse-routine-results/ Alternatively, you can book in for a 1:1 Curl Clinic with me, it’s a 30 min consultation via video where we go through all the issues your experiencing, and then build a routine and recommend products to suit your hair’s needs, your budget and any other requirements you have. Fill out this form: http://www.curlycailin.ie/contact if you’d like more information, and I’ll get back to you via email.
I don’t know if anyone else has said this, but if the dewpoint is really low you need to go glycerin free too. Your hair searchers for the water because it’s so dry.
I live in the desert, in the summer I have to change my products, then during monsoon season it’s hit or miss, in the winter I need glycerin.
This year I can’t remember what conditioner I used last year and nothing I’ve tried so far has given me great results. I’ll search out some of your suggestions, I have chronic migraines so I can’t use products with much of a scent that limits me.
Your hair is beautiful. I seem to always have some frizz and can’t get larger clumps, but I still love my hair so much more than I used to.
Yes I did say that in the post. If the dew points are too high, or too low, then glycerin free is the way to go.
Hi Gabriella, thank you so much for this post! I’m wondering does glycerin in shampoo really matter as it’s water soluable? I’m curious as I’m currently switching to zero waste as much as possible and I’ve found 2 curly girl friendly ‘shampoo’ bars I’d like to try. One of them has amazing reviews but glycerin is listed in the ingredients which is putting me off a small bit. My conditioner and styling products don’t contain any. Your advice would be greatly appreciated and thank you so much for reading 🙂
Hi Karen, I wouldn’t worry about glycerin in your cleansing and conditioning products as you’re going to rinse them out. It’s more so in your styling products.
Hi Gabriella! Thank you so much for your advice!
So the article talks about when to use glycerin based products, in that goldilocks range. I’m wondering if anti-humectant products also have an optimal range? Obviously it seems they work well when the dew point is too high or too low. But do these anti-humectant products also work well when the dew point is in the middle? Because if they do, wouldn’t it just be easier to use these anti-humectant problems anytime?
No, humectant free products work best when the dew points and humidity are in the extremes, either low or high. For when they’re in the middle, that’s the sweet spot when using humectants can work really well for the hair.
Does glycerin matter in a co-wash?
I live in a high humidity area (80% humidity), but I’d like to try the As I Am coconut co-wash, which contains glycerin. Thanks!!
Personally I don’t think so, because you’re rinsing it out and it’s not staying in your hair for long. Unlike styling products.
Hello!
Loved all the information you provide in this article.
I’m curious to see what your view is (or experience is) with Castile soap. I’ve been using it for a while and I’m happy with the way it cleans my hair, but I’m looking to get my hair back to its original curl!!
(Medications have pulled the curls right out of my head!)
Thanks!
I would not clean my hair with soap.
What is a good humectant free deep conditioner for fine hair?
Google, or check out your favourite brands or websites and check the ingredients
I clicked on your Jessi curl link because you said they are all glycerin free miltiple times in the article. The first product I click on has glycerin. I’m having such a hard time finding glycerine free products for my humid/high dew point environment.
Such a useful article about Glycerin. Should I be paying just as much attention to products that list Aloe near the top of the INCI? So many natural CG lines use aloe in it. Thanks
I’m new to all this and struggling to figure out what products I need. I think I have medium to high porosity hair. I live in a dry climate and will be swimming in chlorine. Are those the main factors I need to keep in mind when shopping for products? If so, what products do you recommend for that combination?