It’s an award-winning, cult-favourite deep conditioning mask in the curly hair community. A must-have if you’ve got dry, damaged or chemically-treated hair, or you’re looking for a good protein mask. I’ve recommended it on my blog countless times. But in this post I’ll explain why I’m no longer using Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair!
I bought my first tub a few months into my curly journey, back in 2017. I’d seen loads of people in various curly girl Facebook groups rave about it. Some of favourite YouTubers, even well-respected professional hairdressers who specialise in curly hair use and recommend it! I did my research, watched several videos, read numerous reviews. But there was one simple, quick and easy thing I didn’t do. I didn’t check the ingredients!
I don’t know if you’ll read this post and think “yah girl, we know! Everyone knows. Duh!” or it’ll blow your mind. Here’s why I’m no longer using Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! – it’s not curly girl friendly! I had a conversation with someone recently who explained she’s new to the curly girl method and checks the ingredients of everything before she buys or tries. And Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! wasn’t curly girl friendly.
Wax
I was shocked, I feel pretty confident knowing my ingredients at this stage. I still use the apps when I’m unsure. But I mean, this is a cult-favourite deep conditioning mask in the curly girl community! Surely if it wasn’t CG it wouldn’t be so well-loved, by so many curlies. So I checked, and sure enough, it contains a wax: Isododecane.
If you follow the curly girl method from Lorraine Massey’s book, The Curly Girl Handbook. You’ll know silicones and sulfates are a definite no-no. But so are waxes and drying alcohols. Which brings me onto the next ingredient: Benzyl Alcohol. This came up as “not CG friendly” on the Is It CG? website, listed as a drying alcohol. But it didn’t come up on CurlsBot – another website to check if products and ingredients are curly girl friendly.
Alcohol
I’m still not 100% clear on benzyl alcohol. Naturally Curly says it’s “used as a preservative in products and shouldn’t impact the texture or feel of the hair.” Tightly Curly says “If it’s low on the ingredient list, it’s probably diluted enough that it wouldn’t be a problem.” Both the wax and the alcohol are in the last 5 ingredients, so the quantities are small. But still.
Hygral Fatigue?
Earlier today, as I was going through and editing previous posts where I had mentioned or recommended Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! I came across a photo of my hair during my first year following the curly girl method. I had hygral fatigue. I’d been using Not Your Mother’s Nature pink line shampoo and conditioner at that time. But the thing that really tipped my hair over the edge, was leaving Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! on my damp hair, overnight. You can read that post here and see the effects of hygral fatigue.
I used it again recently, for the first time in a while. It felt very heavy, weighing my hair down. I thought it was due to the oils – as there are a lot of them, high up the ingredients list. But I didn’t realise it’s probably the wax too. I don’t mind the drying alcohol as much, because my hair holds onto moisture really well, almost too well. But I don’t compromise when it comes to wax.
This is why the curl community is so important. Why I never pretend to know it all. After over 2 years following the curly girl method, and almost 2 million hits on my blog talking about it. I still don’t know it all, I still make mistakes. And this was a silly, rookie error I made at the start of my journey, and never thought to question since. Despite what my hair was telling me.
Always check the ingredients
Even if you see your favourite curl friends, influencers or professionals raving about and recommending a product, always check the ingredients first! I hope this post has been helpful, whether you’re a CG newbie, or you’ve been following the curly girl method for months, or even years. I know I’ve certainly learned from it, and will now be double checking the ingredients of all my favourite products.
If you’re struggling with over-moisturised hair, or you’re looking for a good protein mask or treatment, check out this game-changing post on Protein Moisture Balance.
If you’ve used a product containing non-CG friendly ingredients, read this post all about when, why and how you should clarify your hair.
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Great post!
Thanks lovey!
Hi Gabriella, very informative. I have been looking at this brand recently and have been tempted to purchase.
However, are you not using this due to the fact that it’s not CG Friendly or simply the effect that it has?
I recently discovered that Aphogee protein treatment (step 1 and 2), neither are CG Friendly but I know you’re a big fan. Can you explain why you’re willing to stray from the rules for this product?? Thanks 🙂 x
Hi Kirsty, thanks so much. It’s a combination of the ingredients and the effect it has on my hair. The benefit of the protein from the aphogee 2 step protein treatment far outweighs the effects of the small amount of silicones in step 1 (I don’t use step 2). Hope that helps, as I know it’s kind of conflicting information x
Hi Gabriella, thank you for this. My hair loves protein but I’ve been struggling to get a decent concentrate of protein without breaking CGM rules. I think I’ll give it a go x
Hi, love your posts. This isn’t a direct reply to your post but I’m hoping you might be able to advise me. I’m new to the CG method and I’ve decided to stop getting my hair highlighted in the hope the condition will improve. When I rang to change my highlights appt to just a cut, the receptionist suggested I might need a toner if I’m stopping highlighting (as a once off treatment I think in the hope of ‘cleaning up’ the colour where the blonde may have gone brassy). Is this ok from a CG perspective? Or even if it’s not CG approved, maybe I should get it done, then use clarifying shampoo and then keep going with CG approved products. I’m only a couple of weeks following CG method so it’s not as though I’d be undoing months of work. Any advice on guidance would be brilliant. Thanks again for a great blog and website.
Hi Claire, toners don’t last on the hair and need doing quite regularly. I’m not sure if they are CG friendly as I haven’t had them done in years on my hair. Clarifying the hair usually isn’t colour-safe and will strip/fade the colour gradually over time, so personally I wouldn’t get the toner done. If your hair looks brassy at all, I’d be more inclined to use a purple or blue shampoo instead and just make sure it doesn’t have silicones in it. Hope that helps! x
Hi! I’ve been looking for a CG-approved product that both deep conditions and provides protein—basically a balanced protein/moisture mask. Do you have any recommendations? I was going to get this one, but now I am stumped!
Yes, Hairfinity Strengthening Amino Mask, or their conditioner.
This product is no longer available on LF. The site is clearancing out it’s HF products and your discount code doesn’t work for me.
Total bummer!
Hi Heidi, I think stock is just running low due to covid-19 issues.
Hi Gabrielle, this (and all your other stories on your blog) post is so insightful, thank you! I’m curious as to why cgm doesn’t allow waxes? Is it similar to a silicone, whereas you must clarify to get the wax off your hair after using? I’ve seen other curlies who aren’t strictly CG that use styling products with wax in it and say their hair really likes it…. I guess I’ll ask them what benefit they see in using it, but I’m just curious as to why it’s bad to use? Other than weighing the hair down.
Thanks!
Hi May, thanks so much. Wax is a coating that suffocates the hair as it doesn’t allow moisture and hydration into the hair, thus drying it out. Lorraine Massey explains it like coating a woolen rug with wax, it would completely alter and damage the wool, and you would never get it back to it’s original, natural state without using some serious harsh cleansing ingredients. Wax is a barrier to moisture and hydration, things our hair needs. So it makes absolutely no sense to put wax on the hair, not if you want healthy, hydrated hair. Hope that helps, Gabriella x
Very much so!!! Thank you tons! Xo
I thought I would pass this along! I actually contacted the company and they verified
Isododecane is a silicone alternative, however it is not a wax. It is also a water-insoluble ingredient. 🙂
Thank you for flagging this with me, I’m definitely going to look into it more. As far as I’m aware, it’s still a hair-coating ingredient, but I’m going to do some more in-depth research into the ingredient. But thanks so much for letting me know!
Hi, Great blog! I just wondered if you ever found out anymore on the ingredient? Thanks 🙂
I’m curious to know more, too, since I just bought this DC but haven’t used it since treating this blog post.
Water-insoluble means CANNOT be dissolved in water!
Lorraine Massey recommends water-SOLUBLE ingredients.
If this deep conditioner worked so well for you & your hair, why would you stop using it just because one of it’s ingredients wasn’t curly girl friendly? I’d think you know what’s best for your hair & surely, you clarify your hair enough that the potential wax buildup wouldn’t be a problem for you? I hope I’m not coming across the wrong way by asking, I’m genuinely curious. Thanks
Hi Melanie, because when I look back and think about it, it wasn’t working that great for my hair, it was weighing it down. I know I clarify my hair often – once a month – but I’m not willing to sacrifice the health of my hair and undo all the hard work, time and effort over the past 3 years almost, for the sake of a product. Hope that makes sense.
I’m so happy I ran across this blog! I was considering buying this product and doing some research. If this isn’t a good moisturizing product, what would you recommend? I’m having trouble finding something that super moisturizing/slip but low on protein. Thanks for your thoughts!
Ah, if you’re looking for something super moisturising with good slip but no protein, then I highly recommend Matrix Biolage Hydrasource Conditioner, use code CURLYCAILINLF for 15% off, here’s the link: http://tidd.ly/26e46acf
Hi,
How do you know if you need moisture or protein? My hair is wavy, straight, s curl and of course frizzy.
I saw you like matrix for conditioner what do you recommend for a protein and a serum that leaves air dry hair smooth.
Thank you, Deb
Hi Deb, I’ve already got an entire blog post and YouTube video on this subject, check it out here: https://curlmaven.ie/protein-moisture-balance/
Hi!
What I will say in regards to your post “Curly Cailin” is that this product may be better suited for women like me….with Afros. Maybe this product works on certain hair curls and not others. As a black woman, I fully intend to support this product. I have three bi-racial girls and I’m sure it will work for one or all of them. For anyone to decide NOT to use a product, because it does not work for you, speaks more to us as a group of non-thinking followers. Life is easy: think for yourself, buy for yourself and if it does not work, then don’t use it.
There is not a product in the world, that does not have some ingredient, we don’t like. Blow dryers are not good, but we use them, Curling Irons are not good, but we use them too. Hair dyes are horrific and long term use sets the stage for cancer (this is fact). Yet, women utilize the above products over and over again.
Hello everyone
I received a free sample of Briogeo char coal shampoo and a conditioning mask from Sephora in September 2020 and after two uses I noticed that I got some skin rash on my ears and neck. Then a day later the rash increased on my scalp and face. I usually don’t have allergies but this one was definitely an allergic reaction from something of external nature. So I received a cortisone cream from my doctor and treated the rash . Two weeks later I decided to try this shampoo again and boom, same rash… I am just curious how on earth this could be a safe product if it creates a crazy allergy on my scalp, ears, neck and face…
I didn’t find anything extraordinary in ingredients list, but who knows until you try…
So I wanted to share this experience with everyone because it’s not as safe and pure as it’s described…
as far as I know, many beauty products contain activated charcoal, although I’m not sure the specifics of the product you mentioned. But any kind of active ingredients can cause rashes and irritations. Thanks so much for sharing though!
Yay! Classic signs of the hair lacking and needing protein.
So I suffer from adrenal fatigue and hormone Imbalance. My hair keeps getting split ends and when I wash loads of have are pulling out thru the ends. How can I stop this? I’ve lost so much hair! I wear it naturally curly. I dont put heat on it at all, and get trims every 2 months. Thanks in advance
Please read my post called The Golden Triangle of Healthy Hair as that has the information, tips, advice and recommendations to best suit the issues you’re describing such as split ends and hair loss.
Hi! I just read your piece because I was looking for isododecane and why it’s not good in my hairproducts as a new curly girl. I totally understand what your saying and read all off the above comments but what’s still picking my brain is that I came across this ingredient in 3 of my professional hairdresser’s products (2 from I.C.O.N. and 1 from ECRU) I bought (also to start my CG-adventure with quality-stuff… 2 of them are conditioners and 1 is a moisturizing treatment. The ingredient is the 3rd or 4th on the list!
Why would it be in these expensive products but especially good-quality stuff as professional hairdresser material..?
Or am I just a bit gullible?
because it’s not about quality, it’s about what the ingredient is. You can still get good and high quality waxes, but at the end of the day it’s not the quality of the wax that I have a problem with, it’s the wax itself. Hope that helps